Money & Finance

What to Do When a Company Won't Refund You

Stuart Crispe· 30 August 2026· 5 min read

What to Do When a Company Won't Refund You

When a company refuses to refund you, stop negotiating and go to whoever moved the money. Your bank or card provider can reverse the payment without the company's consent, and on a credit card purchase over £100 they are jointly liable for the whole thing by law.

The mistake that costs people the claim: spending months in email with the retailer. Chargeback runs out at around 120 days. People discover the route long after the window closed, having been strung along by a company that had every reason to keep them talking.

Escalate on a clock, not on patience.

At a glance

Credit card over £100
Provider jointly liable (Section 75)
Debit card
Chargeback, usually 120 days
Company gone bust
Both routes still work
Firm's final response
8 weeks
Ombudsman
Free, 6 months to apply
Faulty goods
30 days for a full refund
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Step 1: establish what you are actually owed

Refusing a refund is not automatically wrong. Your rights depend on why you want the money back.

Faulty, not as described, or not fit for purpose. The Consumer Rights Act 2015 gives you a 30-day right to reject for a full refund. After 30 days the retailer gets one attempt to repair or replace; if that fails you can claim a refund, which may be reduced for use after six months.

Changed your mind, bought online. The Consumer Contracts Regulations give you 14 days from delivery to cancel most online orders, and another 14 days to return the goods. This does not apply to bespoke items, perishables, or unsealed hygiene products.

Changed your mind, bought in a shop. You have no legal right to a refund at all. The shop's own returns policy is the whole of it.

Service not performed with reasonable care and skill. You can require it to be redone, or a price reduction if that is not possible.

Being clear which one applies matters, because the wrong claim gives the company an easy refusal.

Step 2: put it in writing, once

One clear written complaint, dated, stating what you bought, what went wrong, which right you are relying on, and what you want. Give a deadline — 14 days is standard and reasonable.

Email is fine and creates the record. The point is not persuasion; it is evidence for whoever handles it next.

Do not send a sequence of increasingly frustrated messages. One letter and a deadline is worth more than twenty emails, and it is what the Ombudsman will want to see.

Step 3: go around them

This is the part most people never reach.

Credit card, item £100–£30,000: Section 75. Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974 makes your card provider jointly and severally liable with the retailer for breach of contract or misrepresentation. You can claim the full amount from the card company directly, and they cannot send you back to the retailer.

The £100 threshold is the cash price of the item, not what you put on the card. A £50 deposit by credit card on a £2,000 kitchen brings the whole £2,000 into scope. You have six years to claim, five in Scotland.

Debit card, or under £100: chargeback. Your bank asks the retailer's bank to reverse the payment. It is a card scheme rule rather than a statutory right, so it can be defended and declined — but it is free, fast, and works on debit cards where Section 75 does not. Usually 120 days, counted from the transaction or from when you expected delivery.

Bank transfer. The weakest position, which is why sellers who insist on transfers are worth being wary of. If you were deceived into paying, the APP reimbursement rules may apply. If the trader is real and simply let you down, this is a civil dispute and the bank cannot reverse it.

Step 4: if the company has gone bust

The claim is often better, not worse.

Section 75 is unaffected by the retailer's insolvency — the card provider remains liable in full. Chargeback also survives, and "the company has ceased trading" is a strong basis for it.

Do not write off money because the business folded. That is precisely the situation Section 75 exists for.

Step 5: the Ombudsman

If your bank or card provider refuses the claim, complain to them in writing. They have eight weeks to give a final response.

Then take it to the Financial Ombudsman Service, free, within six months of that final response. That six-month deadline is strict and it is the one most commonly missed, usually because people were still arguing with the firm while it ran down.

Note who the Ombudsman covers: your bank or card provider, not the retailer. If the shop is the problem and no card claim exists, the Ombudsman cannot help.

If the retailer is the only route left

Where no card claim applies, the remaining options are the trader's own complaints process, an ADR scheme if their sector has one, and the small claims track of the county court.

Small claims covers most consumer disputes up to £10,000 in England and Wales, is designed to be used without a solicitor, and the fee is recoverable if you win. A letter making clear you intend to file often produces a refund on its own.

Trading Standards does not resolve individual disputes, but reporting through Citizens Advice feeds it, and patterns get acted on.

What not to do

Do not call it fraud if it is not. A trader who let you down is a contract dispute. Claiming an unauthorised transaction on a payment you knowingly made collapses when the evidence comes back, and it damages the credible part of your case.

Do not accept a credit note when you are owed a refund. Where you have a legal right to a refund, a voucher is not a substitute, and accepting one can end the claim.

Do not miss the clocks while being reasonable. Nothing stops you from starting a chargeback while still talking to the company. Start the claim, then keep negotiating.

🛡️ Build your recovery plan

Tick what applies to you. The order below is deliberate: most of these organisations will ask for your Action Fraud reference number, so doing it in this sequence saves you making the same call twice.

Nothing ticked yet: the steps below are the ones that apply to everyone. Tick a box above to add the rest.

  1. 1

    Report it to Action Fraud and get your crime reference number

    Action Fraud: the national reporting centre for fraud

    • Onlinereportfraud.police.uk
    • Phone0300 123 2040

    Do this second, and do it before you contact anyone else. Almost every organisation in this list (lenders, credit reference agencies, debt collectors) will ask for the crime reference number Action Fraud gives you, and without it you end up making the same call twice. It also creates the official record you'll rely on if you have to dispute anything later. Expect an update within 28 working days, though that's about the investigation, not about clearing your name; that part is on you and starts now.

    Have ready: What happened and roughly when · Any account or reference numbers involved

  2. 2

    Get all three credit reports and read every line

    Experian, Equifax and TransUnion

    • Experian0800 013 8888
    • Equifax0800 014 2955
    • TransUnion0330 024 7574

    All three, not one. Lenders report to different agencies, so a fraudulent account can sit on one file and be invisible on the others: checking a single report is the most common way people miss the second and third account. You're looking for accounts you didn't open, searches you didn't authorise, and addresses linked to your name that you've never lived at. That last one matters more than it sounds: a linked address you don't recognise is often how the fraud was set up in the first place.

    Have ready: Your addresses for the last six years

  3. 3

    Add a CIFAS protective registration

    CIFAS: the UK fraud prevention service

    • Onlinecifas.org.uk
    • Phone0330 460 9601

    This puts a warning flag against your name in the National Fraud Database, so member organisations run extra identity checks before granting credit in your name. It costs £30 and lasts two years. It does not affect your credit score, and it doesn't touch accounts you already hold, but it will make your own applications slower, which is the trade-off. If someone has your details, that's usually a trade worth making. Note that not every application is checked against the database, so treat it as a strong deterrent rather than a lock.

  4. 4

    Check you're on the electoral register at the right address

    Your local council

    A quick one that's worth doing while you're here. The electoral roll is one of the main ways lenders confirm you live where you say you do, and being missing from it both weakens your own applications and makes it easier for someone to claim your identity elsewhere.

  5. 5

    Escalate if you get nowhere

    Financial Ombudsman Service, or the ICO

    • Financial Ombudsman0800 023 4567
    • ICOico.org.uk

    If a bank refuses to refund you, or a lender won't remove an entry it has accepted is fraudulent, complain to the firm first and give it eight weeks. After that, or as soon as you get a final response, take it to the Financial Ombudsman. It's free and its decisions bind the firm. Where the argument is specifically about inaccurate data staying on your credit file, the Information Commissioner's Office can also look at it. Both routes cost you nothing.

  6. 6

    Close the door behind you

    You

    Change passwords on your email account first, not your banking: email is the master key, because it's where password resets land. Turn on two-factor authentication wherever it's offered. If documents were lost or stolen, report the passport or driving licence to the issuing body so it can be flagged. And set a reminder to re-check your credit reports in three months: fraudulent applications sometimes surface long after the original breach.

Contact details and process reflect Action Fraud, CIFAS, the credit reference agencies and National Debtline guidance for England and Wales. Scotland reports fraud through Police Scotland on 101 rather than Action Fraud; the rest of the process is the same. General information, not legal advice: free, independent help is available from National Debtline, Citizens Advice and StepChange.

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This insight is general information, not financial advice. Your circumstances are unique, so speak to a suitably qualified, FCA-authorised professional before acting.