How to Dispute a Transaction You Don't Recognise
Before you dispute anything, work out which of four routes applies, because they have different rules, different deadlines and different odds. If you did not authorise the payment at all, your bank must refund it by the end of the next working day. If you did authorise it but something went wrong, you need chargeback or Section 75 instead.
The part almost nobody explains: "I don't recognise it" and "I didn't authorise it" are different claims, and banks treat them differently. Most unrecognised charges turn out to be a real purchase under a trading name you have never seen. Say "fraud" about a payment you actually made and the claim collapses when the evidence comes back.
So identify the descriptor first. Then pick your route.
At a glance
- Didn't authorise it
- Refund by end of next working day
- Your liability before reporting
- £35 maximum
- Chargeback deadline
- Usually 120 days
- Section 75
- Credit card, £100-£30,000
- Scam payment you were tricked into
- Reimbursed within 5 working days
- Bank fraud line
- Dial 159
- All four agencies: in one report: Experian, Equifax, TransUnion & Crediva
- Spot the errors: and old debts that quietly get applications declined
- It's a soft search: so checking never leaves a mark on your file
- See what lenders see: the same information banks pull when they assess you
Free for 30 days, then £14.99 a month: cancel online anytime. Check the current price before subscribing. We may earn a commission if you sign up, at no extra cost to you.
First: is it actually fraud?
Three explanations account for most unrecognised charges, and none of them are crime.
The trading name differs from the shop name. This is the single most common answer. The company you bought from and the company that processes its card payments are often different, and it is the processor's name that lands on your statement. A card machine provider, a parent company, a franchise operator.
It is a subscription you forgot renews. Annual renewals are the worst offenders, because twelve months is long enough to forget entirely.
It is a pending authorisation. Hotels, car hire and fuel stations hold an amount that is larger than the final bill. It drops off, usually within a week.
Search the exact descriptor before you call anyone. If you can identify it, you have saved yourself a dispute that would have failed.
Route 1 — Unauthorised payments: the strongest position you can be in
This covers payments you genuinely did not make and did not agree to. A cloned card, a stolen card, someone who got your details.
Under the Payment Services Regulations 2017, your bank must refund an unauthorised payment by the end of the next working day after you tell them. Not investigate first, then refund. Refund, then investigate. If they want to claim you were grossly negligent, they have to prove it, and they carry that burden.
Your liability before you report is capped at £35. After you report, it is nil. That cap is the reason speed matters more than tidiness here.
Call the bank first if money is still moving. If you are worried the call you just had was itself the scam, dial 159 — it connects you to your own bank's fraud team, covers more than 99% of UK current accounts, and cannot be spoofed.
Route 2 — Chargeback: the debit card fallback
Chargeback is not a legal right. It is a rule of the card schemes — Visa, Mastercard and Amex each run their own version — and your bank asks the retailer's bank to reverse the payment.
It works on debit cards and credit cards, which is what makes it the route most people actually need. There is no minimum value.
Use it when you authorised the payment but did not get what you paid for: goods never arrived, the service was not as described, a subscription you cancelled kept billing, or the company has gone bust.
The deadline is usually 120 days, counted from the transaction or from when you expected to receive the goods, whichever is later. Some claim types are shorter. Do not sit on it.
Because it is a scheme rule and not law, a bank can decline and the retailer can defend it. It is quick and free, but it is not guaranteed.
Route 3 — Section 75: the one with real legal teeth
Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974 makes your credit card provider jointly liable with the retailer for breach of contract or misrepresentation. Not a scheme courtesy — a statutory right.
The conditions are specific:
- Credit cards only. Debit cards do not qualify. Neither do most prepaid cards.
- The item must cost between £100 and £30,000. The cash price of the item, not the amount you put on the card. Pay £10 deposit on a £900 sofa by credit card and the whole £900 is covered.
- It must be a breach of contract or a misrepresentation — not simply changing your mind.
You have up to six years to bring a claim (five in Scotland), which is a different order of magnitude from chargeback's 120 days. If both routes are open to you, Section 75 is the stronger one.
Route 4 — You were tricked into paying a scammer
This is an authorised push payment (APP) scam: you made the payment yourself, by bank transfer, because someone deceived you. A fake invoice, a bogus "safe account" call, a purchase from a seller who never existed.
Since 7 October 2024, reimbursement is mandatory. Under the Payment Systems Regulator's rules, banks must reimburse APP scam victims, with the cost split evenly between the sending and receiving firm.
- Reimbursement within five working days of the claim.
- Maximum £85,000 per claim.
- Firms may apply an excess of up to £100 — some waive it.
- Covers Faster Payments and CHAPS between UK accounts.
- Claim within 13 months of the payment.
It does not cover international payments, card payments, or genuine civil disputes with a real trader who simply let you down. Banks can refuse where the customer was grossly negligent — but vulnerable customers are exempt from both the excess and the negligence standard.
Which route, at a glance
| Situation | Route | Deadline |
|---|---|---|
| I never made this payment | Unauthorised — PSRs 2017 | 13 months, but report immediately |
| Paid by debit card, goods never came | Chargeback | Usually 120 days |
| Paid by credit card, item over £100 | Section 75 | 6 years (5 in Scotland) |
| I transferred money to a scammer | APP reimbursement | 13 months |
| A direct debit was taken in error | Direct Debit Guarantee | Immediate full refund |
The Direct Debit Guarantee is the forgotten one
If the payment was a direct debit taken in error — wrong amount, wrong date, one you cancelled — the Direct Debit Guarantee entitles you to an immediate full refund from your bank. You do not argue with the company. You tell your bank, and they refund it and reclaim it from the originator.
It is the fastest remedy in UK banking and almost nobody uses it, because they ring the company instead.
If the bank says no
Complain in writing to the bank first. They have eight weeks to give you a final response.
After that — or immediately if they issue a final response sooner — take it to the Financial Ombudsman Service. It is free, you have six months from the final response, and the Ombudsman can order the bank to pay. Around a third of banking complaints it looks at are upheld in the customer's favour.
Say plainly which route you are claiming under. A complaint that says "Section 75, item was £340, misrepresented at the point of sale" gets handled very differently from one that says "I want my money back".
Before you close the file
If a charge you cannot identify turns out to be genuinely unauthorised, the card details are not the only thing at risk. Check whether anything has been opened in your name — a credit report shows accounts and searches you never made, and it is the fastest way to find out whether one fraudulent charge is the whole problem or the first sign of it.
🛡️ Build your recovery plan
Tick what applies to you. The order below is deliberate: most of these organisations will ask for your Action Fraud reference number, so doing it in this sequence saves you making the same call twice.
Nothing ticked yet: the steps below are the ones that apply to everyone. Tick a box above to add the rest.
- 1
Report it to Action Fraud and get your crime reference number
Action Fraud: the national reporting centre for fraud
- Onlinereportfraud.police.uk
- Phone0300 123 2040
Do this second, and do it before you contact anyone else. Almost every organisation in this list (lenders, credit reference agencies, debt collectors) will ask for the crime reference number Action Fraud gives you, and without it you end up making the same call twice. It also creates the official record you'll rely on if you have to dispute anything later. Expect an update within 28 working days, though that's about the investigation, not about clearing your name; that part is on you and starts now.
Have ready: What happened and roughly when · Any account or reference numbers involved
- 2
Get all three credit reports and read every line
Experian, Equifax and TransUnion
- Experian0800 013 8888
- Equifax0800 014 2955
- TransUnion0330 024 7574
All three, not one. Lenders report to different agencies, so a fraudulent account can sit on one file and be invisible on the others: checking a single report is the most common way people miss the second and third account. You're looking for accounts you didn't open, searches you didn't authorise, and addresses linked to your name that you've never lived at. That last one matters more than it sounds: a linked address you don't recognise is often how the fraud was set up in the first place.
Have ready: Your addresses for the last six years
- 3
Add a CIFAS protective registration
CIFAS: the UK fraud prevention service
- Onlinecifas.org.uk
- Phone0330 460 9601
This puts a warning flag against your name in the National Fraud Database, so member organisations run extra identity checks before granting credit in your name. It costs £30 and lasts two years. It does not affect your credit score, and it doesn't touch accounts you already hold, but it will make your own applications slower, which is the trade-off. If someone has your details, that's usually a trade worth making. Note that not every application is checked against the database, so treat it as a strong deterrent rather than a lock.
- 4
Check you're on the electoral register at the right address
Your local council
A quick one that's worth doing while you're here. The electoral roll is one of the main ways lenders confirm you live where you say you do, and being missing from it both weakens your own applications and makes it easier for someone to claim your identity elsewhere.
- 5
Escalate if you get nowhere
Financial Ombudsman Service, or the ICO
- Financial Ombudsman0800 023 4567
- ICOico.org.uk
If a bank refuses to refund you, or a lender won't remove an entry it has accepted is fraudulent, complain to the firm first and give it eight weeks. After that, or as soon as you get a final response, take it to the Financial Ombudsman. It's free and its decisions bind the firm. Where the argument is specifically about inaccurate data staying on your credit file, the Information Commissioner's Office can also look at it. Both routes cost you nothing.
- 6
Close the door behind you
You
Change passwords on your email account first, not your banking: email is the master key, because it's where password resets land. Turn on two-factor authentication wherever it's offered. If documents were lost or stolen, report the passport or driving licence to the issuing body so it can be flagged. And set a reminder to re-check your credit reports in three months: fraudulent applications sometimes surface long after the original breach.
Contact details and process reflect Action Fraud, CIFAS, the credit reference agencies and National Debtline guidance for England and Wales. Scotland reports fraud through Police Scotland on 101 rather than Action Fraud; the rest of the process is the same. General information, not legal advice: free, independent help is available from National Debtline, Citizens Advice and StepChange.